Morgan Hunt Ward, Prop Stylist: Priscilla Montiel, Food Stylist: Julian Hensarling
I’m torn on chardonnay. I both disdain and cherish it. Unlike most wine varieties, which maintain a steady profile regardless of their origin or production methods, chardonnay is a chameleon. Depending on the vineyard, it can range from slender and zesty, laced with mineral notes and hints of honey and green apples, to a rich, oak-infused butter bomb, or something in between.
This unpredictable nature has somewhat tarnished the reputation of this ever-present white wine. To set the record straight, I spent a leisurely afternoon with Aldo Sohm, the wine director at the three-Michelin-starred Le Bernardin in New York City and the author of Wine Simple: Perfect Pairings. Here’s what I gleaned from our conversation.
Aldo Sohm, Wine Director at Le Bernardin, Partner at Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, and Author of Wine Simple and Wine Simple: Perfect Pairings
Sohm emphasizes that the terroir, or the vineyard’s location, plays a crucial role. “In warmer climates, grapes possess lower acidity and higher sugar content, leading to a more potent alcohol level. Conversely, in cooler regions, sugar levels rise more gradually, resulting in a more acidic juice.”
Another influential factor is the type of barrel used for aging. Oak imparts a vanilla essence and a toasty, smoky character, Sohm explains. Barrels made from older oak impart less of this flavor compared to those from younger oak. Chardonnay aged in stainless-steel tanks, known as “unoaked,” lacks oak flavor entirely.
Chardonnay grapes are not only used to make chardonnay wines but also contribute to the creation of Chablis, Pouilly Fuissé, Meursault, and White Burgundy. They are often the sole grape variety in blanc de blancs Champagne. In fact, alongside pinot noir and pinot meunier, chardonnay is a cornerstone in the composition of most Champagne bottles. So, if you enjoy Champagne, you’ve got a soft spot for chardonnay!
For those who disdain chardonnay but favor sauvignon blanc, it’s possible you’ve yet to discover the right chardonnay. Introducing Chablis, possibly the driest and most mineral-forward wine within the chardonnay family. Chablis hails from a cooler part of the Burgundy region in France, where winemakers craft unoaked or lightly oaked chardonnay wines. Its subtle saltiness pairs beautifully with oysters and other delicate seafood, Sohm notes. “It’s also a delightful sip on its own.”
For those who prefer sauvignon blanc and have dismissed chardonnay, give it another chance. Discover Chablis.
Seek out chardonnays from the Santa Rita Hills or Santa Barbara regions in California, Oregon, Burgundy (excluding Chablis), or Austria. These wines may carry a whisper of oak or vanilla, but the flavors are not overpowering. “These wines are slightly richer and rounder than Chablis, yet they retain a good acidity, making them excellent for pairing with food,” Sohm suggests. Consider serving them with dishes like sea bass, scallops, or lobster. They offer a robust presence that complements these foods, while also adding a refreshing touch to the glass.
Despite my criticism of the traditional, creamy chardonnays, many people are smitten with them, and that’s perfectly fine! These wines are usually aged in new oak to maximize the oak, toasty, and vanilla flavors, often originating from warmer climates like Napa Valley and the Russian River Valley in California, Sohm adds. “They can also be found in Argentina.”
Sohm advises that it’s beneficial for wine enthusiasts to maintain a spark of curiosity, to be open to exploration. That means not dismissing any wine variety outright. When shopping, seek advice from the salesperson. At a restaurant with an unhelpful wine list, ask your server for more information. Even better, request a taste. Wine is subjective, and if it brings you joy, indulge in it.
